HOW TO: Make P-Tap to Nyrius Wireless HDMI with proper Voltage – Power Adaper

I made this specifically for when I’m using a Red or any other camera that doesn’t use my LANPARTE BATTERY DOCK. – Before I’ve had to use two v-lock batteries on a large camera so I could use the HDMI wireless transmitter (one powered through the 5v out on the lanparte battery pinch). Now with this P-Tap adapter, I can just draw power straight from the only v-lock on the camera.

In retrospect, I could have just put the plug straight into the volt converter instead of soldering, the cable I have now is pretty long.  I’ll probably try to make some sort of enclosure for this too, probably using something that I can easily work with, like plexi glass or some sort of plastic that I can dremmel, or maybe I’ll be bold enough to try using some aluminum.

Unfortunately, I don’t know the size of the plug I got, but I’d think it’s about 2.5mm.  You can search ebay for “cctv power cable”.

Here are relevant links:
Nyrius HDMI Wireless Transmitter/receiver

I use this model rather than the mini one because if the HDMI port breaks on the mini one, I’d have to buy a whole new unit, whereas in this version; I’d only have to buy a new cable.

Volt Converter

I chose this one… cause it was there lol. I really don’t know what else to say.

Cable

As for the rest of the stuff, you can just search ebay for ‘p-tap’ and ‘heat shrink’.

update

I made a makeshift enclosure for this puppy. I used a small 0.07L really useful box I had that was damaged and drilled two holes in it. I’m going to try to dremel out a hole for the USB port as well. Maybe try to weatherproof it a little by adding some sort of rubber o-ring or Teflon tape or something.

By having it in this unit, you can easily velcro it to your rig by adding some velcro to the back of that ‘really useful box’.

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Now I don’t know if the unit will need ventilation, but I don’t imagine it’ll get too hot. If it does, I’ll attach a heat sink or make more vent holes or something.

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About thedavelam.com

I'm Cinematographer in Toronto, Canada - just trying to learn as much as I can and share it all. Also the owner of Spectacle Media Inc.
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4 Responses to HOW TO: Make P-Tap to Nyrius Wireless HDMI with proper Voltage – Power Adaper

  1. Elliott says:

    I think the only thing that could get appreciably hot is the little black one on the top left (and that’s mostly because I can’t read what it is 😉

    • Thanks for the insight, any thoughts on how to keep it cool?
      Or if i’d even need to do that?

      • Elliott says:

        Oh, I see there’s another chip on the back, which seems like the one that’d require the heatsink. The max current is apparently 2A without heatsink. I feel like it shouldn’t use that much current, but it probably depends on how strong the wireless transmission needs to be.

        You can probably check the original adapter from the Nyrius to see how much it’d use, though it’s usually a max spec, and not typical drain. If you have a multimeter, you could tap in and check. The ebay guys sell a heatsink which could be fine, but you’d probably need to tap some holes in the case to get some airflow. Most chips work up to 85C, so if it’s just slightly warm, you probably don’t need extra cooling.

        BTW, the ebay page says USB voltage is whatever you set it to, so don’t plug anything in if it’s not set to 5V!

      • Oh thanks for the tip! Very useful.

        I don’t think I’ll need a heat sink in this case, but I’ll be careful for the USB!

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